Is there any point of going to Tuscany if you're not going to indulge? Probably not, which why it made a perfect destination after
running a race. I knew I would have few regrets about relaxing, eating, and drinking as much as I wanted, from the moment we arrived at our AirBnB in
Panzano, which featured a mural of the region's delights (top left). Of course, why would I spend time in the bedroom when I could get the same view from the balcony (top right)? Right in our backyard were olives, which were in season to be harvested (middle left), and grapes, which unfortunately could not be turned into wine during our time of our stay (middle right). Across the way -- and my uplifted feet -- I could see
Vignole winery, which was on a better schedule to produce vino (bottom).
We arrived in the Chianti town right around lunch. Obviously, the area is known for its wine. But the city itself is renown as home to famous butcher Dario Cecchini, who was immortalized in mosaic at his casual eatery
Dario Doc (left). Although his other outlets offer more expensive tasting menus, the family-style cafe features set menus revolving around many types of meat. Knowing of our dinner plans, I selected the smallest option: hamburger, potatoes, and vegetables (right).
Only few hours later, and still half-full, we set off for our
Cook Tuscan class in a villa near
Sambuca (top). The villa has been divided into apartments, the top one of which belongs to Manuela and Silvio. Their home is a mix of collectibles (bottom left) and comfort (bottom right) that reflects their partnership. Manuela is a self-taught cook who instructs, and Silvio is an ex-salesman of
Murano glass who translates.
We selected our menu in advance, so we knew we would be able to burn off what was lingering in our bellies as we prepared the many recipes. For an appetizer, we selected mushroom crostini (top left). There were so many fungi left over that Manuela helped us whip up some risotto as well (top right). Our first course was gnocchi with butter and sage cream sauce (bottom left). Although I had made both risotto and gnocchi before, I picked up some excellent tips to improve the dishes. And they even sent us home with special wooden paddles traditionally used to shape the pasta (bottom right).
The main course was
polpettone, a rustic meatloaf that is stuffed with vegetables (top left). It wasn't as time-consuming to prepare but it was more fraught with potential pitfalls. Despite our best efforts, the loaf split while it was in the oven (top right) -- but that didn't make it any less delicious. We had more luck with the
torta della nonna, which also requires technical precision in creating the crust and custard (bottom). With a lot of elbow grease, we succeeded in presenting a set and sumptuous dessert.
The next day, we decided someone else could do the work while we drank. Our
wine tour started at
Castello del Trebbio, which was once the stronghold of the Pazzi family, whose crest can be seen in the courtyard (top left). Many family members were killed in the fortress as retribution for the failed plot to bring down Medici rulers,
which is said to have been planned there (top right). Besides the mafia-like legacy, the castle has a oenologic heritage as well. The cellars are littered with decades-old and unfortunately undrinkable bottles (bottom left). The winery now based there attempts to use historically accurate methods, including an air-release valve invented by Da Vinci (bottom right).
Our tasting was held in a room perfect for sipping fine vintages and scheming political homicide (top left). The only conspiring we did, though, was by the fire with some chocolate and dessert wine (top right). When we emerged from the dim hall, the fog had lifted, so we had a brighter and better view of the surrounding vineyards (bottom left). The lovely landscapes continued as we proceeded to lunch at a sleepy roadside restaurant, where we sampled the local special variety of ravioli next to some more warming flames (bottom right).
As if having wine in a castle wasn't luxurious enough, we then proceeded to the villa of
Marchesi Gondi (top left). The family's matriarch outlined her
ancestors' rise prominence in Florentine life after helping financially prop up King Alfonso. As a result, the Gondis ran in royal circles, including with the Medici family; they became so cavalier that they tore down a house where Da Vinci supposedly painted the
Mona Lisa in order to build
Gondi Palace, which ironically now displays artistic masterpieces (top right). The winery is somewhat of a side project, so our tasting was held literally in the family's den (bottom left) after a tour of the cellars, which housed centuries-old vats used to store olive oil (bottom right).
The morning before my flight home, we took a jaunt to
San Gimignano, so we could do something other than just eat and drink (top left). The city, whose central square is on the
UNESCO World Heritage List (top right), was once a halfway pit stop between Rome and Florence. Its towers were easily spied from the surrounding hills, helping pilgrims keep on the straight and narrow path (bottom).
But don't get me wrong, we still did eat and drink. At
La Rocca wine museum, we sampled a series of white wines, unique within environs otherwise known for red Super Tuscans (top left). Then we swiped some free samples of cheese at one of the many shops along the cobblestone streets (top right). For our last meal, we descended into
Peruca, where we capped off our few days of decadence with one final dish of pasta and glass of wine (bottom).
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