Tuesday, May 2, 2017

Somehow along the road here, we have lost our way (S.Hrg.111-1218)

On our way to our third destination in Wales, we took a few detours. One stop was Fishguard, which is not just remarkable because of its name. The Cardigan Bay harbor is the site of the last unsuccessful invasion of mainland Britain, in 1797 (Hastings was taken in 1066). More than 70 women sewed the town's Last Invasion Tapestry over two years to honor a brave woman, Jemima Nicholas, a cobbler's wife who single-handedly captured 12 French soldiers by wielding a pitchfork (top). We found another bold lady just outside the city at Gwaun Valley Brewery (bottom left). The matriarchal co-founder was manning the taps at the farmhouse brewery (bottom right).
A little side road led us to Nevern, through which runs the river of the same name (top). The town is known for its medieval artifacts, including the Nevern Cross, a stone Celtic monument dating to the 10th or 11th century (bottom left). A few meters away in the same churchyard is the Bleeding Yew, which legend holds will secrete sanguinely until the world is at peace; for the record, a red stain remains (bottom right).
The sun was going down as we headed along the tidal River Glasglyn toward Porthmadog (top), where we stopped in search of dinner. The options were limited so we just had pints of local Purple Moose Brewery options at The Australia and headed on to that night's accommodation. After a day of diversions, we found some Indian food in Blaenau Ffestiniog then had a nightcap at our hotel, Y Pengwern, before hitting the hay (bottom left). We didn't get a good look at Ffestiniog until the next morning, when we set out to explore Snowdonia National Park (bottom right).
 
We knew Sage wouldn't be able to reach the famous mountain's summit, so instead, we headed to Dolwyddelan to wear him out with a circular walk (left). Like Ms. Nicholas, I took charge of the operation, but unlike her, I faltered at my pursuit, and we got a little lost. Eventually, the luck of a rainbow helped us find our way back to our car (right).
I was more successful in directing us to Betws-y-Coed, so we could make a stop at Swallow Falls. Being the off-season, we had the place pretty much to ourselves (left), so nobody got in the way of our view of the rapids, which were running heavy due to recent rains (right).
Despite being within spying distance, cloud cover had kept Mount Snowdon from our view for most of the morning (top left). We circled around its base along the River Glasglyn until we reached the start of the Ranger Path (top right). The sun or the wind, but most likely the sheep, reinvigorated Sage, so decided we could hike partway toward the mountain (bottom left). Our efforts were rewarded when the nimbostratus finally lifted to reveal the peak (bottom right).
 
After two hikes in one day, TJ and I also were dog-tired. So when we stumbled across Snowdonia Parc Brewery, we decided our achievement merited some liquid malt (left). When we reached Llanberis, we headed straight to rambler mainstay Pete's Eats for a rib-sticking meal (right). 
All that walking meant we spent way less time in Conwy than I would've liked. The spotlights did little justice to Conwy Castle (top left). The lingering supermoon, however, helped some to illuminate the medieval structure's well-preserved turrets and walls (top right). We wandered around the walled town center, which is so compact that it contains the Smallest House in Great Britain (bottom left). It's also home to the Albion Ale House, a cozy pub co-operated by four breweries: Purple Moose, Great Orme, Nant, and Conwy. After a jam-packed day, even Sage was willing to relax by its fire (bottom right). 

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