The number of visitors throughout the peak season (71FR33255)

After a couple of days by the lake, we headed off to Castleton in the Peak District, which likely once was full of lakes, too, considering the number of caverns in the area. As we descended past Dark Peak, the only water we saw was in the form of snow (left). Only once at the bottom of the steep road were we able to spy the namesake of the town: Peveril Castle, now in ruins because villagers dismantled the tower, reclaiming its stones to add to their houses, after Peverel the Younger dishonored King Henry II and fell out of their favor (right).

Despite the snow, it wasn't so cold that we needed to use the fireplace in our cozy "hobbit hole" room at Causeway House B&B, a 14th-century cruck-frame cottage (left). The small guesthouse, run by a South African family, has consistently won awards for its breakfast, the menu for which strayed from the typical full English by also offering hash browns, white pudding, and Derbyshire oatcakes (right).

By the time we settled in, it was already nightfall, so we did a circuit of the village pubs, which we had mostly to ourselves due to it being off-season. We had some snacks by candlelight at The Peak Hotel (top left). Then we killed some time with a couple pints at Ye Olde Nags Head (top right) before we headed over to Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese in time for its weekly pub quiz (bottom). We did not win.

To work off those liquid calories, the next morning we set off on a daylong hike. As we headed down the lane out of town, we noticed a knee-level observer (left). Thankfully, the watchman let us pass, and we continued on our way to Hollins Cross. From the lane, we headed into a snicket trickling with melting snow (right), then scaled narrow sheep tracks to the top of the ridge.

From Hollins Cross we took an offshoot detour up Mam Tor. Although the sun was warm, the wind was bracing -- yet clearly gratifying for the many paragliders circling the summit (left). From the top of the mountain, we were able to look back down into Hope Valley from whence we came (right). 

After a careful walk down an icy trail -- which caused one slip that resulted in a muddy bum -- we reached Edale Valley. To get to central Edale we had to cross a few sheep pastures (left). I was no longer worried about the dirt on my backside after we had to wade through a mucky underpass with a flock following right on our heels (right).

Soon enough, we reached our destination: the village's picturesque Holy & Undivided Trinity Church (left). The church is right down the road from Fieldhead Campsite, the chosen accommodation of our aborted travel plans. We hope to stay there eventually, so we can pass through the trailhead of the Pennine Way (right) to ascend Kinder Scout.

But that would have to wait for another day, as we were ready to refuel at The Rambler Inn (left). Perhaps as a sort of commitment to our future trek, TJ and I split a Kinder platter, a sampler plate of pork pie, cheese, and ham (right). When I went to order at the bar, I couldn't resist the tray of home-made treats on offer, so I got us a hearty flapjack cookie for dessert as well.

After our late lunch, we headed to the station next door, so we could take the train back to Hope, from which we had planned to make the short, level walk back to Castleton. We ended up catching a bus instead because we got side-tracked by the warmth of the massive fireplace at The Old Hall Hotel, where we left a coin in the mantel for good luck (top). We needed to get back in order to give Sage a relief break, after which we rewarded him with some socializing at The George Inn (bottom left). We checked one more pub off our list with a light dinner at The Castle; our cured-meat pizza with a side of pork scratchings really hit the spot (bottom right).

 

The next morning, we had time for just a quick jaunt before making the drive back to reality. We chose a short trail into Cave Dale behind the castle, so it would be easy for Sage (top left). We didn't count on the canyon being full of free-roaming sheep, which distracted the dog's focus from his footing (top right). Somehow we manged to retrace our steps on the slick rocks back to the old village market, where we were greeted with a glimpse of rainbow before we went on our way (bottom).