Livability ... means fostering pedestrian and bike friendly communities (SerialNo.111-2)

I might have overcompensated, but because I was denied my bike ride in North Zealand, I was determined to explore Copenhagen by cycle. When I got off the train, though, it was a bit late in the afternoon to rent a bike, so I wandered on foot until I could check in to my hostel. It is probably no surprise that almost immediately, I struck out for a brewery. The Norrebro district is known for being a social center, so I was a bit surprised that there were so few people at Norrebro Brewery, where they produce BRAW, an experimental arm of the larger operation (left). It was tempting to sit at the sunny sidewalk picnic table all afternoon (right), but after a Worm Hat IPA and Kneel Before Xenu NEIPA, I knew I should seek out some sustenance.

I walked a few blocks to the city's most popular Food Hall (top left). Among the stalls and trucks, intriguing options abounded, but I decided on a local favorite: a fish cake with potato salad from Boutique Fisk; I washed it down with Kragelund Brewhouse's India Black Ale (top right). I had killed enough time that I could now proceed to my accommodation. But on such a lovely afternoon, I took a slightly circuitous route around the The Lakes (bottom left), which spit unsuspecting me out onto Rorholmsgade Art Street, where I gawked into the windows of the many galleries (bottom right).

 

I know, I know, I'm too old to be staying in hostels, but when you're on your own in an expensive city, a "luxury hostel" like Steel House is the perfect fit -- and I'm not just talking about my bed cubby hole (top). It was in within easy walking distance of many major tourist sites, including the architecturally astounding Radhaus (bottom left) and the downtown amusement park Tivoli Gardens (bottom right).

 

I bypassed both, as I was making a beeline to the pedestrian old town, more specifically a place called Taphouse, which lives up to its name by having 61 draft offerings (top left). I tried a tried trio of domestic selections: Dry & Bitter Brewery's Phantom Blossom saison, Alefarm Brewing's Ephemeral milkshake IPA, and Bad Luck Brewing Co.'s Voodoo Weiss. My tastebuds whetted, I continued my beer quest by heading to the Meatpacking District (top right), where I got lost amid the warehouses trying to find WarPigs, a laid-back BBQ and beer joint (middle). With the weather still lovely, I joined the crowds outside, where the tasting flights were as plentiful as the sauce options (bottom left). With my mac 'n' cheese and brisket, I was given some surprisingly strong selections: Dusty Punter pilsner, Lazurite IPA, Elite Human IPA, Sky Burial barley wine, Rain of Terror black pale ale, and Henry Ded Mon triple IPA, The Veil Brewing Co.'s collaboration with Mikkeller (bottom right).

I called it a night and hit the hay early, so I would be well-rested for my self-styled bike tour the next day. I double-checked my route as I had a bagel breakfast (top left). My first stop was so close that I could've walked, but it was fine that I didn't because I ended up walking plenty to the top of Round Tower, which is unique in that it is mostly a ramp instead of stairs (top right). On the way up, there's a window looking into Trinity Church (bottom left), which the tower was part of as part of a larger complex that included a library and an observatory (bottom right).

Nowadays, instead of looking at the stars, most people look out at the skyline (top). Despite the clear day, the observation deck wasn't too busy because I got there early (bottom left), so I was able to easily peruse my surroundings and get my bearings, including my next bike stop, Rosenborg Castle, whose style was quite reminiscent of Frederiksborg Castle in Hillerod (bottom right). 

I walked my bike through the castle grounds, which features a statue of hometown hero Hans Christian Anderson, where only a few tourists were taking pictures (left). On the other hand, over at the sculpture of one of his famous creations, the Little Mermaid, mobs of photo seekers were streaming from a nearby line-up of tour buses (right).

Next up was Nyhavn Canal, which I believe was also likely next up for many of tour groups, but I beat them to it. The sidewalk cafes in front of the colorful dock houses still had plenty of seats (top). I was tempted by the indoor atmosphere of fishermen's den Fisken Pub (bottom left), but I opted for the breeze and view from its outdoor tables as I had an IPA from Jacobsen Brewery, which is part of the international Carlsberg group (bottom right).

After my drink, I wheeled along through the well-heeled area of the the city, home of the monarchy and patriarchy. A statue of King Frederick V looks toward his own church in the courtyard in front of Amalienborg (left). Guards keep watch at what was once Frederik VIII's palace because it is now the winter residence of the current queen, Margrethe II (right).

The surrounding scenery and social philosophy changed severely as I crossed above the Copenhagen Canal and over the threshold of Christiania (top left). The collection of ramshackle structures form a community that is accepting and welcoming (top right). This easy-going attitude might have something to do with the fact that it is a known nexus of marijuana use. Indeed, as I walked around the "freetown," I could fully sense a cannabis vibe in the air (bottom left). Despite taunts to try a relaxant, I had a stimulant instead, in a small central square of the commune (bottom right).

Now I had the energy to make the long haul to Refshaleoen Street Food Market, which was quite worth riding to what seemed like the middle of nowhere (left). I took me a while to make sure I fully evaluated the dozens of stalls around the industrial hall, which was the venue for Eurovision 2014, but I finally settled on domoda, a vegetarian Gambian stew, which came with a variety of hot sauces and a sweet but tangy baobab juice (right).

Conveniently located adjacent to the food market is Mikkeller's Baghaven (top left). The branch, whose name appropriately translates to "backyard," offers a variety of craft ciders but unfortunately not small tasters (top right). So I had to pace myself as I surveyed downtown Copenhagen while sipping a Peter, Pale and Mary pale ale, Vesterbro brown ale, and Beer Geek Brunch imperial maple stout (bottom left). I'm not sure whether the strong set of brews or my poor sense of direction was to blame, but I got a little lost on my way back. Luckily, after I figured out where I went wrong, I was able to make up some time impolitely weaving around other riders. Once I saw the spire of Christiansborg Castle (bottom right), I knew I was near my hostel -- and no longer at risk of missing my train and flight.

 

 

May their actions be undertaken with zeal (147Cong.Rec.H6063)

Before Kyiv's winter season forced me into hibernation, I wanted to bank some time outside, so I chose North Zealand as a destination. To be clear, this is not New Zealand, where much of the Lord of the Rings franchise was filmed. But my trip did begin with a bit of a personal quest, as I struggled to find my AirBnB in the northern region of Denmark. I wandered around the Par Force Hunting Landscape for nearly an hour before I found the place about 200 meters from the bus stop where I started my search.

At the end of my apartment adventure, there was much reward. The hosts were so welcoming, as they gave me a tour of the house addition they created for their daughters. Prideful photos of their progeny, who ended up getting married and living in houses with their own families, adorn the apartment walls (left). I, however, was more impressed by the bathroom, which featured a spa tub and sauna that would later become nice nightcaps for my outdoor pursuits (right).

The next morning, I set out with the intention of getting a little lost in a nearby national park. I took a train to a isolated station in the middle of Gribskov Forest (top left). When I start wandering among the trees nearby, though, I realized I was not exactly far from civilization. Well-marked trails kept me from straying too far; I opted to follow the yellow-dot road (top right). And many people were wandering in the woods, seemingly mushroom hunting. Not being a fungi aficionado, I merely inspected some sprouts, opting not to disturb any snails' shelters (bottom).

Originally, I had hoped to rent a bike and ride a well-known trail that snakes through the forest (top left). But unfortunately, most shops had limited hours on Saturday, so such an outing didn't seem worth it. As a result, I was taunted by yellow jerseys as I bopped from one yellow dot to the next (top right). Eventually, I left the forest trail in order to hike to a nearby abbey. The way wasn't signposted, but it was well-marked by beauty, including a darling thatched-roof house that literally was named "Darling" (bottom left) as well as numerous bridges across charming bubbling brooks (bottom right).

As I reached the end of my pilgrimage path, Esrum Abbey, the sun started to come out (top left), which made walking the short circuit of the grounds that much more enjoyable. Along the way, there were interactive stops that explained what the abbey would have looked like during its heyday (top right). A lot of the buildings have disappeared, but the mill house is fully intact (middle left) and its interior gears are still operational (middle right). Once upon a time, monks would've ground grain for beer there, but the Esrum Kloster abbey ale that I drank in the cellars is made off-site by Skands Brewery (bottom).

Just down the road from the abbey, I caught a bus to the port of Helsingor, which has some historical ships on display at its dock (top). Part of the dock warehouses has been converted into a maritime-themed Street Food Market (bottom left). I decided to try beiju, Brazilian tacos made from tapioca, but I washed it down with a local brew, Tuborg, which was born in a Copenhagen suburb (bottom right).

But the main draw of the city, linguistically corrupted into Elsinore by a famous bard, is Kronborg Castle (top). It is said that the fortress, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was the model home for Shakespeare's beleaguered Dane. Most definitely, you can imagine Hamlet pacing upon its precipices (middle left), with some overcast weather adding to his downcast attitude (middle right). Surprisingly, the ramparts where he supposedly saw his father's ghost didn't feel so dreary (bottom left), maybe partially because it has become a setting for wedding photos (bottom right).

 

Don't get wrong, Hamlet was going through some stuff, but you would think living in a palace with one of the longest ballrooms in the world could ease his pain a bit (top left). If not that, how about looking up at the spectacular ceiling masterpieces (top right) or looking out across Oresund Strait (middle)? I'm guessing, instead, he spent too much time wandering in the cold and clammy casemates (bottom left), never giving a second thought to how Viking hero Holger Danske had it much worse than him, holed up in there sleeping for hundreds of years (bottom right).

Touring the castle did put me in a bit of a blue mood, which didn't dissipate as I skirted the gray waterfront on my way toward downtown (top left). Luckily, the city center was filled with color that brought back some cheer (top right). The Skands' Elmegade IPA that I drank at Gaestgivergaarden went a long way toward lifting my spirits (bottom left). Then the Stegt Flaesk I ate at Cafe Hyacint, accompanied by Brockhouse Brewery's Classic Lager, completely returned me to an even keel (bottom right). 

As the sun went down, I caught the train back to Hillerod, where I unwound in my spa bathroom. When the sun came up, I awoke to perfect weather, which provided a painting-like backdrop for a visit to Fredriksborg Castle (top). These Danish kings really knew what they were doing. I mean, my jacuzzi tub and sauna had nothing on Frederick II's bathhouse, where he would clean up with his buddies after hunting all day (bottom left). I chose a less strenuous use of the castle grounds, wandering through the impeccably groomed gardens (bottom right). 

Nowadays, the castle is a top destination because it houses the National History Museum, which was started with an endowment from the founder of Carlsberg brewery (top). But I was there on a Sunday morning, so others were attending services in its clock tower, which houses the parish church (bottom left). Yet others were participating in an organized race through the palace grounds. However, I, gluttonous heathen that I am, opted out of both to enjoy a Kanel Snegle, a cinnamon "snail" with chocolate (bottom right).