Monday, March 28, 2016

Clouds tend to accumulate on the hilltops (70FR31342)

Back in the fall, TJ and I had planned a camping trip in an English national park, but it got sidelined by work obligations. When we finally got a weekend long enough to revisit our plans, it was winter, so camping was no longer ideal. But it meant that we had more time to tack on a visit to a second outdoor attraction: Lake District National Park, known as the land of Beatrix Potter.

After driving all day -- very carefully in a blinged-out rental car on the left-hand side of the road -- we got to our base, Windermere, right at sunset (left). As we walked down to the lakeside, it was easy to understand how the environs had inspired Potter's books. And why she decided to settle in the area after her publishing success (and marriage to a local chap), spending her final days in the farmland around Castle Cottage. Ironically, Potter had no children to enjoy the stories she wrote; instead, she raised Herdwick sheep at Hill Top and Troutbeck Park farms. From the dock in Bowness-on-Windermere (right), you can catch a lake cruise to Wray Castle, where Potter vacationed with her family when she was younger.
Despite our last-minute planning, we landed a great place to stay, in the attic room of The Lamplighter, which provided a nice view of the area's grey-stone and thatched-roof structures (left). The establishment is known as one of the best dining spots in the region, and even from just our included breakfast, we could tell why (right).
Bellies full of bacon, we headed off through the Kirkstone Pass toward the northern part of the district (left). Quite a few people were taking advantage of the melting snowfall to hike up some of the highest peaks in the park. It was difficult to tear TJ away, but thankfully, it was too early for the Kirkstone Pass Inn to be open, so I was able to convince him to head on. 
TJ's goal was to step into Scotland. Ultimately, we abandoned those plans, but at least we hit the border of an ancient empire: Hadrian's Wall. The 80-mile wall is mostly in ruins now, but the footprints of some structures remain, such as Poltross Burn Milecastle (top left). Milecastles were small forts constructed every, well, mile along the frontier. On the other hand, turrets -- like the one at Walltown Crags (top right) -- were watchtowers spaced every one-third mile along the wall. Even from the wall's remains (bottom), the feat of its construction is apparent: It took six years to build the 6-foot-wide and 20-foot-high partition. 
The wall was paid for by Emperor Hadrian and built by British troops to keep the "barbarian" Pict and Brigante tribes out of Roman territory. It apparently is part of the inspiration for George RR Martin's "Game of Thrones" series, and at Housesteads Roman Fort (left), you can dress up like your favorite characters to re-create scenes from the TV show. Instead, TJ and I took advantage of the only opportunity along the Hadrian's Wall Path to walk right on top of what remains of the barrier (right).
After lingering too long at the UNESCO World Heritage Site, we decided Scotland wasn't in the cards, so we headed back to the Lake District, so TJ could try one of his favorite beers right from the source. The Black Bull Inn, home of Coniston Brewery, had many choices on tap, but TJ opted for his beloved Bluebird Bitter (top). The Coniston pub is a purveyor of old-school ales, but Hawkshead Brewery in Staveley had more modern styles on offer. TJ tried a Brodie's Prime porter with his huntsman's pie, and I had a Hop Black dark ale with my venison casserole (bottom left). Although he's a teetotaler, even Sage got into the pub action, sharing a table at The Stags Head with us (bottom right).
Sage was much more enthusiastic the next day, when we set off on the sunny path up to Orrest Head (left). The Outlying Fell was the first hill scaled by fellwalker Alfred Wainwright upon his setting foot in the Lake District. Many ramblers simply pass over the hill as they hike onto other destinations, including Kirkstone Pass (right).
But we only had a little while to lap in the views of Windermere Lake before we set off for our second national park (left). We could just barely spy Ambleside -- a quaint, but perhaps more posh, town at the northern tip of the lake -- amid the High Fells (right).
On our way back south we stopped off in Skipton for lunch. The town once was known as Sheep Town because of its animal market, but now tourists are tended to by herding them onto steam-powered boat rides along the Leeds-Liverpool Canal (top left). The jaunts on the waterway pass by Skipton Castle, a well-preserved medieval castle and likely the namesake of The Castle Inn. The tower next to the pub isn't a castle turret but the steeple of Holy Trinity Church (top right). To sustain us for the rest of our day's journey, directions for which I am Googling, TJ fueled up with a Theakston Old Peculier while I warmed up with some tomato soup from the special Mother's Day menu (bottom).

Sunday, March 20, 2016

Touted as an anti-depressant, an aphrodisiac, a euphoriant, and a sleep aid (145Cong.Rec.4513)

As luck would have it, TJ managed to swing by London after a work trip, so we could be together for Valentine's Day. We're not exactly into flower bouquets, boxed chocolates, and fancy dinners, so we celebrated our love with apples, hops, and oysters instead (hey, at least that last one is considered an aphrodisiac). 

There were some fresh flowers on hand when we arrived at Faversham, a small market town in Kent (top left). Unfortunately, the apple blossoms wouldn't be out until April, so the orchards at Brogdale Farm, home of the National Fruit Collection, were still closed for the season (top right). Nonetheless, we were able to try the farm's wares in liquid and solid form. We picked up a liter of medium cider from on-site producer Tiddly Pomme (bottom left) after TJ tried a pint of it with lunch at Courtyard Restaurant & Cafe, where my soup-and-sandwich combo featured cheddar and apple chutney on whole-grain bread (bottom right). 
We were happy for the cider because we struck out with the on-site Mad Cat Brewery, where you have to call ahead for a tour during the off-season. That was to be expected from a small operation, but we were surprised to find the large commerical Shepherd Neame Brewery shuttered, too. We settled for a stroll around its modern facilities (left).The former buildings of the oldest British brewer, opened in 1698, are now part of a residential/office development (right).
The brewery was and is clearly the crux of Faversham, as it backs right up to the other religion in town: the grounds, including the cemetery, of St. Mary of Charity (left). Just a couple blocks away from the church, hops rose from the ashes at The Phoenix Tavern, home of the Timothy Taylor Appreciation Society, so we didn't try any Shepherd Neame ales (right). On our way back to the train station, we passed Furlong's Ale House, so we stopped to sample a couple regional craft beverages.
From Faversham, it was only a 15-minute ride to the coastal town of Whitstable, where a view of the water was a Valentine's Day treat for normally doubly-land-locked TJ (left). The holiday retreat is known for its oysters, but its heritage as a mining town looms above the city in the form of Whitstable Castle (right), whose grounds originally were used for smelting iron sulfate from the eastern suburb of Tankerton.
 
Still, the oysters are the main attraction now, with their shells piled up right on the shore (top left). Across the boardwalk from the shuck heap sat the Whitstable Oyster Company, a restaurant housed in the former Royal Native Oyster Stores (top right). Even on Valentine's Day, we didn't need a full-on sit-down meal, so instead, we headed over to The Forge, a seafood shack right outside the Whitstable Fisherman's Huts (bottom). A mound of mollusks served up by a fishy-smelling man, alongside a pint of Oyster Stout from Whitstable Brewery, was all we needed to make our day of romance complete.
 

Saturday, March 12, 2016

Kept the members active in the winter months (144Cong.Rec.E2029)

Britain's reputation as being cold and grey is a tad overstated, as so far this winter, it hasn't seemed any more cloudy and rainy than Ohio. But nonetheless, it is always tempting to hibernate. Luckily, London has lots to offer to get you outside. Even better, active events are often free or really cheap. I paid only 2 pounds to participate in the Putney Street-O, an orienteering competition that involved navigating and running the streets of my own neighborhood. A month later, I did the Wimbledon Night-O, a similar race, but through some muddy woods nearby. I managed to hit more than half of the control markers before I got completely lost and bailed back to the starting point, so the organizers wouldn't send out a search party.

Less than a week later, I was back racing through Wimbledon Park for the Dash for the Splash, which was worth getting down and dirty for the opportunity to see the spectacular surroundings in the daylight (left, with credit to Thames Hare & Hounds running club). Another fitness happening held around every corner is Parkrun, weekly free timed 5K's in communities throughout the country (and beyond: They're starting to catch on in the States). I set my "personal best" by doing my first run at Fulham Palace. I didn't break any records at the Trick or Treat Run at Richmond Park, but I had lots of fun putting on my "fancy dress" and sprinting through the "scary obstacles." But by far, the best treat was spotting some of the park's famous deer camouflaged by fog and vegetation (right).
 
Other weekends, I participate in individually planned pursuits. One time, I got the bike out for a loop ride connecting two breweries. I stopped for a White Out! white session IPA at Clarkshawspop-up at The Platform (top left), then cycled on to the Beer Hall Bash at By the Horns Brewing Co., where I had a Lambeth Walk porter before heading home. A few weekends later, I did an out-and-back ride, so I could sample some on-tap offerings from Weird Beard Brew Co. at its monthly Open Day. From the menu, I chose A Lemon Tree My Dear Watson, a lemon meringue pie beer collaboration with Bexar County Brewery, and the Safe Word chokeberry IPA, a previous collaboration with BrewDog rebooted by demand (top right). It's too bad the brewery isn't open more often because I really enjoyed watching people play board games and listening to Pantera tunes amid the vats (bottom).
I like to see the town on my rides, but to really survey the scenery, I need to slow down, so I decided to join a tour with Walk London. On the walk I took, the first bit of history explained by our guide was that the design of the Hammersmith Bridge was based on the Chain Bridge in Budapest (top). From there we proceeded west along the Thames Path, a trail along which I frequently run and bike (bottom left). Recently, storm surges have created extra-high tides, leading the river to overrun its banks (bottom right).
The theme of the walk was the arts, and for some time, the north bank of the river was a nexus of the Arts & Crafts Movement, partially because designer William Morris, founder the philosophy, lived at 7 Hammersmith Terrace (left). A decade earlier, the works of painter William Hogarth, who is buried at St. Nicholas church (right), were more likely to be found on the walls of family homes.
 
Artist James Whistler, a contemporary of Morris's, chose London as his home later in life, and his tomb can be found at Chiswick Old Cemetery next to the church (top). As we stopped for our guide to discuss the history of the church, named after the patron sailors and fisherman (bottom left), it was difficult not to ditch the group for a detour to Fuller's Griffin Brewery, which could be seen just beyond the church's stained glass (bottom right). 
Instead, I chose to follow the crowd to Chiswick House and Gardens, whose landscaping, including a well-pruned Camellia Collection (top left), has inspired parks around the world, such as Central Park. At the time, its grounds were being groomed with silk flower sculptures to prepare for the upcoming Magical Lantern Festival (top right). The house, designed as an homage to Italian architect Palladio by British architect William Kent, was once a party palace for the Earl of Burlington (bottom). 
Our last stop relating to the arts was St. Michael's church, where Dylan Thomas once stayed. The church's parish house next door played a role in more modern aesthetics: It was used for exterior house shots in the Stephen Hawking biopic The Theory of Everything. The tour ended near Strand on the Green, whose string of stacked river pubs look like a movie set. Sadly, I didn't have time for a pint, as I had to get home for my most frequent exercise activity: walking the dog.