Promote further progress by Cambodia on human rights (HR1642)

As we continued our loop through Southeast Asia, our first stop in Cambodia was the obligatory one: Siem Reap, home to the Angkor complex. Although the UNESCO-recognized archaeological park is the main attraction, the city itself is a nice place to take a stroll. Siem Reap is bisected by a river that flows into Tonle Sap, the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia. Along the river you can catch glimpses of how life is and was lived along the water, including the drying of wetland herbs and flowers (left). Some communities build water wheels to collect and use the kinetic energy of the water flow (right).

Speaking of kinetic energy, the vibrant center of Siem Reap at night is "Pub Street." You can probably tell from its name and its neon that it caters to tourists; it's somewhat like Bourbon Street during Mardi Gras, but with fewer bead-throwing taunts and cheaper "big-ass" beers (left). But if you go down some of the side streets, you can find some more enjoyable waterholes, including Asana, a bar built into the last wooden house in the middle of the city (right).

The very atmospheric treehouse was surprisingly quiet, considering how many tourists were in town to see Angkor. We were lucky enough to get away from the crowds on Pub Street -- and in Angkor. Most people hire a tuk-tuk to tour them around the complex; we opted to use bikes in an attempt to get off the tuk-tuks' route and schedule. We used our own to feet to get us first to a lesser-visited temple, Baksei Chamkrong, where we used our own two feet again to climb the very steep steps (left). They were so steep that TJ and I both decided to climb down backward, as if on a ladder (right). 

For the moment, we sideskirted Angkor Wat, which seemed inundated with people, and headed to Angkor Thom. We approached through the south gate, where the bridge over the moat is lined with a series of very impressive statues riding a snake (left). In the middle of Angkor Thom lies Bayon, a structure known for its many built-brick-by-brick faces (right). We spent quite a while crawling through Bayon's crevices, always finding even-more-detailed carvings.

Next up was Ta Phrom, pitched as the set for Lara Croft: Tomb Raider. Never having seen the movie, I had no desire to envision Angelina Jolie climbing its walls, especially when the local children were so skillful themselves (left). Instead, it was at the top of my "must-see list" because of how nature has invaded the structure, somehow making it even more beautiful (right).

After lunch, by the second half of the "small circuit," we didn't stop for more than a cursory glance or photo opp at any more temples. Nonetheless, we enjoyed cruising the countryside, at a quick clip, so we could reach Angkor Wat by closing time. The temple city is what first drew attention to the area, and upon looking at the complex architecture, it's no surprise why (left). The temple is supposed to be spectacular for sunrise, but it was equally stunning at sunset (right).

In every country with beaches, we vowed to visit the capital and the coastline. Unfortunately, after the brilliant weather and sights at Siem Reap, our choices lacked luster. Although Sihanoukville is very popular, it didn't quite fit our beach profile: We're too cheap for the full-service resorts, but we're too old for the back-packer shacks. We ended up staying at some mid-range bungalows abutting some fancier boutique hotels. In high season, they're probably quite nice, but being in Otres Beach II, we were very far from anything but the sand, which was not as fun without the sun. Still, we managed to enjoy some pleasant breakfasts while watching the waves (left). In between the cloudbursts, we made our way to Ocheteaul Beach (right). But we didn't stay long because it looked as if it were suffering from a hangover, much like many of the people who frequented its party bars the night before.

 

On our way to Ocheteaul Beach, the clouds cleared long enough to take a dip at Otres Beach I. We bought a few drinks so we could occupy a beach bar's reclining chairs. Even with the gray weather, it was relaxing enough -- when we weren't being bothered by tour touters and pedicure purveyors, both of which ply the area's long stretch of sand.

In a strange way, packed Phnom Penh was a welcome change, as we could sink anonymously into the crowd. The capital is full of great markets to get lost in, including Psah Thom Thmei, the central market that can be spotted from miles away because of its huge dome (left). The promenade along the Mekong River usually is quite crowded, although it cleared up by the time we stopped for a snack at the well-known Foreign Correspondents Club, which seemed more like an Applebee's imitiation than a journalists' institution (right).

We started our tour of Cambodia with a survey of ancient history, and we ended it with an investigation of the more recent past. Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum was created in the ruins of the S-21 prison run by the Khmer Rouge. The Pol Pot regime converted the prison from a school, covering its walkways with barbed wire (top right) and knocking down its walls to create cell blocks (top left)). In the cells, political dissidents were chained, tortured, and even killed (bottom left). Fourteen people found dead when the prison was discovered are immortalized in graves on the grounds and -- quite disturbing -- photos on the walls; in fact, dividers have been added in order to display the many "mug shots" of prisoners (bottom right).

Without sacrificing what remains of their traditional way of life (SPrt107-32)

Time for another detour from our Southeast Asia itinerary. Halfway through our trip, we were already noticing some habits and traditions that seemed to cut across the cultures of the area. Some were frustrating or annoying, but most of them were intriguing and gratifying.

Transportation
After food, most people relate Southeast Asia to crazy traffic. Indeed, the streets are full of all types of transportion. Perhaps the most famous is the tuk-tuk. There are many variations, but the basic structure is some type of motorcycle with a place for passengers attached behind. In Vientiane, the tuk-tuks were sturdy and colorful (left), but in Siem Reap, they were less decorative and more functional (right). In both cases, they provided a great way to view the nightlife.

In many places, the tuk-tuks share the road with motorbikes, which also act as taxis, but for single passengers. Their drivers are just as insistent at offering rides and are just as confident with their navigation, even when carrying a tourist and his 40-pound pack. In Luang Prabang, there was an adequate but not overwhelming mix of 2-, 3-, and 4-wheel taxis (top left), but in Phnom Penh, commuters on motorbikes swerve through lanes in a swarm (top right). The only place we felt safe enough to try two wheels was in peaceful Koh Lanta, where we rented a scooter for exploring the island (bottom).

In Koh Lanta, most people find the ocean to be another efficient travel route. We saw the flag-laden boats of the island's Chao Leh, or "sea gypsies," crawl around the southern tip of the island in a steady stream, presumably on their way home to Sang-ga-u (top). We didn't hitch a ride with the gypsies, but we did join the locals in the river ferries of Bangkok (bottom left); the boats, particularly one designed just for tourists, are a quick way to hop from temple to temple. The Saen Saep canal boats are equally useful, although we didn't stumble upon one until we were about to leave the city (bottom right).

 

Leisure
One place you were sure to see lots of tuk-tuks and motorbikes parked outside were the open-air movie theaters in Siem Reap, which were basically tables and chairs set up in front of big-screen TVs (left). Some drivers stopped for such a short time that they didn't even get off their bikes, making it sort of an indoor drive-in (right). For tourists, Siem Reap and Sihanoukville offered personal theaters, such as Top Cat Cinema, where you can pay for a private room with a couch to pop in and watch a (likely pirated) DVD of your choice.

TJ and I unwound by getting a massage and partaking in an herbal sauna at the Lao Red Cross in Luang Prabang (left). Despite the heat, the humidity of the sauna, imbued with lemongrass, did feel cleansing. Unfortunately, we didn't get to experience a similar sauna at Wat Sok Pa Luang in Vientiane, which had been temporarily shut down due to a lack of funds (I have since read that it will re-open soon). If you don't want the full spa experience, you can get a quick massage -- head, hand, foot, or full body -- in numerous streetside establishments. If you're feeling charitable, you can even respond to one's plea to "Feed our hungry fish your dead skin" in Siem Reap (right).

  

If you want a really good deal, you can head to one of the more modern night markets in Siem Reap, where $2 will not only get you a 30-minute massage but also a drag show gratis (left). If you'd rather do the singing, instead of just watching some lip-synching, you can head to the karaoke bar within Munich Beer Restaurant in Phnom Penh (right).

 

Sports
Karaoke is a competition for some, but there are real recreational and professional sports to participate in as well. On our way back from the night market in Vientiane, we stumbled upon a makeshift bar set up beside a alleyside petanque court (left). We accepted and offered a few beers among the players of the game, which is similar to bocce. Later, in Luang Prabang, we saw games going on during the day, on a set of courts cut into tiers along the Mekong River (right).

Soon, the petanque courts disappeared, but we started seeing circles of people in Vietnam and Cambodia playing what appeared to be hacky sack, but the "sack" was more of a hybrid with a badminton shuttlecock. Down from a large pick-up soccer game, many smaller groups in Phnom Penh's waterfront park played Jianzi, or Chinese hacky sack (left). In Bangkok, we decided to check out a professional sport, a line-up of muay thai fights, but the pricing scheme at Lumpini Stadium dissuaded us. The cheapest seats for tourists, $30 a pop, are standing-room-only, so vendors try to upsell you to ringside seats that cost close to $100. All of this was hard to stomach when you could see the billboard advertising a price of $5-$10, likely for locals (right).

Coffee
If you're not into sweat-producing pastimes, the best way to kick back is with a cup of coffee. Like many countries besides the United States, the coffee is thick and strong, so it is served in small doses. It is sometimes served with sugar, but a better idea is to ask for it "white," meaning with condensed milk, which provides plenty of sweetness. Our first taste was in Vientiane, where they made the coffee with water boiled on a gas burner then poured through grounds in a linen sock; being a traditional place, they served the java with cups of tea (left). We thought perhaps the tea was a way to cut the bitterness of the coffee with well-placed sips, but when we had coffee in Cat Ba Town, we realized it might be so you have something to drink while you wait for your coffee to steep. There, the cafe gave us individual drip strainers that we placed directly on our coffee cups (right).

Considering the tropical climate, the region has embraced ice coffee. The best one we had was in Koh Lanta, where we got not only two full glasses, but the proprietor also gave us a third one of the leftovers, as if it were a milkshake (left); truth be told, it tasted nearly as good as a milkshake. In former Indochina, a French influence remains, even within the realm of coffee. At Le Cafe Ban Vat Sene in Luang Prabang, our croissant and baguette were accompanied with individual French presses (right).

Beer
Coffee is great, but it is also readily available in Pakistan. Unlike beer, which might be why we went a little overboard with the brewskis on vacation. Another reason might be because it is so darn cheap. At bia hoi stands in Hanoi, you can get a draft beer for the equivalent of 25 cents -- and they even give you free boiled peanuts (left)! In Laos, there is only one beer on offer, Beer Lao. At most places, it seemed the custom to order at least two large bottles of it to share among the table. The bottles, chilled in a bucket of ice, would be placed on a small stand next to the table; you simply set your empty bottles on the bottom shelf of the stand. It's easy to lose track of how many bottles you've consumed, which means some bars end up looking like the bad end of a frat party (right).

Throughout the other countries, we tried just about every beer available on the market, even the disgusting ones, such as SiamSato (which is actually rice wine). Here are the ones that I can remember:
Vietnam: Bia Ha Noi, Biere Larue, 333 and Bia Saigon, Huda Beer, Halida
Cambodia: Cambodia Beer; Angkor Beer; Tiger, Anchor and ABC; Kingdom
Thailand: Chang Beer, Singha, Leo Beer, Cheers Beer
This might seem a bit indulgent, but it shouldn't seem too out of line, considering that we saw offerings of beer (and Coca-Cola) at a temple in Hanoi.

Intense typhoons ... could affect Vietnam (SHrg112-399)

From Laos, we headed to Vietnam, which through no fault of its own ended up being the washout of the trip -- literally. While we were in country, not one but two tropical storms stampeded through the China Sea. The first hit while we were inland, in Hanoi, but nonetheless, it created endless raining and flooding. 

Not to be deterred, we tried to focus our sight-seeing on the indoors. Although it was within walking distance of our hotel near Hoan Kiem Lake, we took a taxi to the Temple of Literature, in an attempt to stay dry for a while. The main building on the campus is Thai Hoc house, where the first university in Vietnam was opened in 1076 (left). To reach the temple/museum you had to wade through the courtyard dedicated to Confuscious and the scholars he taught there (right). Despite their wealth of knowledge, the scholars apparently never mastered the art of drainage.

 

Say what you will about prisons, at least they have roofs. So next, we headed to Hoa Lo Prison, also known as the Hanoi Hilton. Of course, shelter from the storm was the only good part about this historical jail. Most people know of it as the place where American POWs, including Sen. John McCain, were held during the Vietnam War. On display there is the flight jumpsuit of McCain, who says he was tortured in the prison. The Vietnamese government reftues this, but it in no way denies the poor treatment of political prisoners prior to the Vietnam War. Cells are marked with the names of revolutionaries who lived -- and often died -- in the poor conditions (left). Others were sentenced to death by various means, including the guillotine (right).

Our time in Vietnam was bookended by days in Hanoi, and when we returned, after the second tropical storm hit, the skies had cleared a little, leaving us in showers instead of downpours. Released from the imprisoning rain, we sought out some drier culture at Tran Quoc pagoda in Tay Ho, or West Lake (left). Near the oldest pagoda in Hanoi grows a tree that comes from a seedling of the bodhi tree in Bodh Gaya, where Buddha achieved enlightenment; it is said that it's good luck to walk around the tree, as Buddha did as part of his meditation in India (right).

Our time away from the city started on the Reunification Express, the train line from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City (left). The overnight train to Hue offered some relaxing views in the morning after a somewhat uncomfortable night (right). The two berths across from us were booked by three members of a Vietnamese family, so our car was a little cramped. There was also some confusion as the family seemed to debate whether they were going to share one of the berths; eventually, the patriarch disappeared from the cabin for the night, probably opting to catch some shut eye in one of the non-sleeper cars.

Upon our arrival in Hue, we headed straight for the Imperial City. The UNESCO site and walled citadel houses the Forbidden City, home to the royal family for most of the 19th and 20th centuries. The city was badly damaged during the Battle of Hue during the Vietnam War, so a lot of the buildings are in ruins or in the process of restoration. But there were still plenty of impressive architecture to see, including Hung Mieu temple, built in honor of the emperor's parents (left). As if the temple weren't enough, the Queen Mother had her own residence, Dien Tho palace, complete with a peaceful pleasure garden (right).

No doubt, it's good to be the emporer, but the regular folks of Hue don't have it so bad either. The city outside the Imperial City has its own charms. Being on the coast, most of the activity revolves around the water. The locals commute to and from town on boats (left), and other residents live in the same boats that they use to offer tourist trips down the Perfume River (right).

But for the most part, the world was too much with Hue, so after spending the good part of a day there, we departed for even more antiquated and alluring city. The beauty of Hoi An, another UNESCO site, is contained in its narrow streets of clustered old structures, as seen from the unique Japanese covered bridge (left). You can buy a ticket to gain access to the many historical buildings, or you can go the cheap route, like us, and find a restaurant that has been converted from a traditional merchant's home (right).

Like Hue, Hoi An is a community built along a river, so once again, many boats ply its waterways. Other, more timeworn vessels stay put, mooring even more magic to the waterfront promenade (left). At night, the promenade is lined by women selling candles you can cast off into the water as blessings or wishes (right). Their nautral lights contrast with the neon ones across the Quang Nam River, where a party scene is sprouting as a foil to the ancient side.

Hoi An is on the coast but not on the ocean; instead, it sits upon an inlet from the China Sea. But about 3 kilometers from downtown is the beautiful An Bahn beach, where another type of boat fills the waves. Basket boats called coracles, often woven from bamboo, dotted the sand (left). Although they seemed difficult to steer, some fishermen expertly navigated around TJ and other beach-goers as they headed out to sea (right). 

We had hoped for even more beach time on Cat Ba Island, but TJ managed to get only one dip in the ocean before the second tropical storm rolled in. On our first night on Cat Ba, the skies were calm (left). So were the many boats docked in the harbor of Cat Ba Town, most of which head out on day tours to Lan Ha Bay in the nearby biosphere reserve (left). 

But the next day, the weather had become as erratic as Cat Ba Town itself. The city has a bit of a split personality. Set amid scenic karsts beside traditional boats is an unspectacular panorama of contemporary high-rises (left). By morning, the packed harbor had completely emptied. When we found out bad weather was coming, we tried to get off the island, but the "last ferry" for which we bought tickets was cancelled, as was the "first ferry" off the island the next day. So sadly, we spent a lot of time loitering around repetitive Cat Ba Town, gawking at its gaudy welcome arch (right) instead of the wonders of its nearby islands.

To add insult to injury, when we finally caught the ferry to the mainland, the Hoang Long bus from Haiphong to Hanoi was overbooked, so we ended up sitting on a ledge behind the bathroom next to the last row of seats. The bathroom was locked, so there was no smell, but with the engine directly below, there was plenty of heat and fumes, with little ventilation. The murky brown of the Red River was a welcome sight, signalling the end of our unfulfilling Cat Ba adventure. 

Despite the troublesome precipitation and transportation, though, I still have pleasant memories of Vietnam. All I need to remember them is to look at this photo I took as we were biking back from the beach near Hoi An. A cotton-candy rainbow sky has a way of making all my perceived slights disappear.