That was hard, hiking in the snow (126Cong.Rec.Bound)

I used to be a little smug about references to "rambling" in the United Kingdom. I found it funny that they didn't just call it "hiking." But after a recent group hiking trip, I have fully embraced the word as the best descriptor of my kind of weekend in the woods; rambling is more concerted than walking but less challenging than actual hiking.

Our entourage of eight followed an itinerary arranged by Active Ukraine. To start, we took the overnight train from Kyiv to Ivano-Frankivsk (top), the same place TJ and I used as a jumping-off point for our first foray in the Carpathians. The sun was coming up just as we chugged into the city (bottom left). Our first walk, not hike, was to a filling breakfast at Urban Space. We also took a quick stroll around the city's Heritage Museum before heading out to our base camp (bottom right).

On the way there, we stopped in Yavoriv to see some heritage in action. The short but slow climb up to the location of our cultural activity was an indication that I might be out of my depth. But at least the sun was shining, which made it perfect for drying cheese and mushrooms outside (top left). But really, we were there to see how the locals turn hand-spun wool (top right) into beautiful but practical wool blankets called lizhnyk (bottom).

Our host, Panna Anna, demonstrated how to turn wool, which is cleaned with a "natural waterfall washing machine," into yarn (left) that is sometimes dyed before it is fed into hand-made looms for weaving (right). A few of tried our own hands at parts of the process, but I can tell you, none of us made it look as easy as Panna Anna (which means "Miss Anna" in Polish).

Despite our paltry contribution to her operation, she filled our bellies with a delicious lunch that included corncakes with brindza cheese as well as pancakes with berry jam (left). She also filled our glasses with various types of homemade alcohol, including samogan, otherwise known as Ukrainian moonshine. By the time the meal was over (right), some of us (re: me) were a little tipsy and wondering how well that afternoon's hike would go.

Luckily, it took a little while to reach the town of Dzembronya, where we met our guides at Bily Slon camp, which is named after the abandoned observatory on Pip Ivan, also known as Chornohora or Black Mountain (left). Many of the camp's cabins were booked so we all stayed together in a single house across the river and street called Ksenya Lodge (right).

After dropping off our gear, we set off for our first hike, 3 miles up and down the hills behind the camp. I knew there would be some ascents over the weekend, but I didn't realize just how high we would be climbing from the river valley (top left). It also didn't help that a fast pace was set by our accompanying malamute mascot (top right). Although I was sucking wind most of the way up, I was able to catch my breath as we stopped for snacks and selfies before making a slippery descent (top).

The next day, we drove to the starting point of our second hike, for which we split into two groups: faster and slower. You can probably guess which one I joined, but I didn't mind because being behind the lead pack allowed me to enjoy the solace of the path (top left). Originally, our guides had planned a much longer hike, but they scaled way back to about 5 miles after they assessed our ability, especially in knee-deep snow -- with possibly more on the way (top right). But we made it to our destination, some excellent stone formations hidden among the evergreens (bottom left). Standing beside the gigantic structures, I was enormously proud of my achievement (bottom right).

 

Once we got back down to the valley, we abandoned our hiking poles (top) and made a beeline for the banya. At first, after being out in the cold all day, I felt like I would never want to leave the heat, but it's a necessity of the tradition to alternate between the humid steam of the sauna (bottom left) and the bracing chill of a nearby plunge pool or snow bank (bottom right).

The alternation kind of reminded me of the process of an out-and-back hike. If you manage to make it up the hill (top left), you are rewarded with a return down the hill -- which can sometimes can be just as challenging (top right). If you cut a path across a field (bottom left), you'll follow those tracks back (bottom right). But somehow, the exertion makes you less aware of the repetition.

 

It also helps if you are distracted and entertained by a great guide, who had a knack for taking solid candid snapshots (top left). He took equally nice posed shots of our group along the trail (top right). I would be remiss if I didn't credit most of my motivation to my fellow trekkers (bottom), who at least for a weekend turned this ramblin' woman into a hikin' hopeful.

Where saunas or steam rooms are provided in clusters (73FR34465)

I am not always the best planner when it comes to travel, so it's really helpful to have friends all over the world who forgive you for deciding to visit on short notice. It's especially nice when such friends have an apartment where you can crash, so all you have to worry about is buying plane tickets. Such was the case with my last-minute trip to Tallinn over a long weekend in January, which barely got planned in the few in-between days after we returned from our holiday road trip.

Mid-winter in the Baltics, the days are short, so even though we arrived at Jagala Waterfall in the early afternoon of my first full day, it already seemed like the sun was setting (top). Despite the frigid temperatures, only the edges of the cascade had frozen into icicles (bottom left). This, along with the fact that the water was a little dingy, gave the impression that Estonia's highest waterfall was a flow of cola (bottom right).

 

We got a little lost as we headed down the road to Lahemaa National Park, but luckily, when we arrived at Viru Bog, the sun was still on the horizon (top). The light through the trees made the trailhead feel tranquil, even though a hearty lot filled the parking lot (bottom left). Unlike the falls, all the water in the bog seemed to be frozen. Despite appearances, we didn't take any chances, sticking to the boardwalks and tower as we surveyed our surroundings (bottom right).

With the majority of one day spent mostly outside in the cold, we figured it wouldn't hurt to balance out the weekend with a day spent inside in the heat. So we took a bus to Parnu (left), where we visited Estonia Resort Hotel & Spa. An hourly fee gives you access to eight saunas, including a traditional smoke sauna, a UNESCO Intangible Heritage. My favorite was the aroma sauna, which had windows that framed a view of the snow you were escaping. After our sweat sessions were over, I kept the saline feeling alive with a salt-table treatment. At our next stop, a late lunch at Supelsaksad, only salt, not myself, was set on the table (right).

 

I had been to Tallinn before, so I wasn't necessarily interested in seeing all the tourist sites. But they're difficult to avoid as you wander around and through the old town, especially when they're so darn charming. A cute little skating rink was constructed outside St. Nicholas Church and Museum (top left). And a delightful holiday evergreen was lingering by the Town Hall (top right). Right across from the hall sits the city Pharmacy, which has been open since 1422 (bottom left). It was home to some less adorable wonders, including "dried deer penises" and "sun-bleached dog feces" (bottom right).

More appetizing and healthy remedies were on display at Balti Jaami Turg, the market on the other side of the train station in the new part of town (top left). After a stroll through the produce, we headed over to Telliskivi, a former industrial area that is being transformed into a creative, artistic space (top right). We contemplated lunch at a cafe there, but then decided instead to head back to the old town to Rataskaevu 16 (bottom left). I believe we made the right choice because the homemade bread and braised elk (bottom right) put a perfect final point on an indulgent weekend.

May freedom and liberty continue to flourish throughout central Europe (145Cong.Rec.H11683)

When we left Kosice on New Year's Eve, we weren't in any rush to get to our next destination because we weren't sure how interested we would be in the midnight celebrations. So we made a detour to Bardejov, a UNESCO World Heritage site partially due to the medieval walls surrounding the city's original center (top left). One of the most effective and well-preserved parts of the fortifications, the Thick Bastion, has been converted from an ammunition storehouse into a community center (top right). But my favorite part was the main square, whose perimeter is formed by colorful burgher houses (bottom). 

Crews next to the square's Town Hall were setting up for the evening festivities ahead; inspired, we decided to try to speed toward our potential party town for the night, Lviv. After a long slog on some slippery back roads and a short pass through a near-deserted border crossing, we arrived in the Ukrainian medieval town about 8 p.m. We settled Sage and our stuff into our hotel, then took a bus downtown, where we expected to have to fight partying masses in the streets. Much to our surprise, although there were crowds, plenty of seats were still available in restaurants, so we could score some food.

After dinner, the sound of music lured us to the Opera and Ballet Theater, where Kurbasy was singing people into the holiday spirit (top left). Even though it was already about 11:30 p.m., we found plenty of standing room to witness the countdown. Apparently, unlike in the United States, the celebrations really start heating up not before but at midnight, when people pull out champagne and sparklers (top right). I was happy we had come to join the fun until fireworks started to be launched from what seemed like 10 feet away (bottom left). The locals were unfazed, but we evacuated to Pravda Beer Theater, where we toasted in 2018 with a few pints (bottom right).

 

About 2 a.m. we walked back to Hotel Pysanka, where an on-site party was still in full swing. After a long day, the bass from the banquet hall didn't bother us, so we got a good night's rest that allowed us to get an early start, including a traditional breakfast of syrniki, or cottage-cheese pancakes (top). Afterward, we stretched our and Sage's legs with a stroll through the old center, including past the peaceful Church of the Holy Communion (bottom left). With one last look at the lively Market Square, a UNESCO World Heritage site, we vowed to return then left for the long drive back home (bottom right).